Harbor Freight Drill Press Switch

Tuesday, 27. December 2011

The switch contacts began sticking on my Harbor Freight drill press and the machine could not be turned off.

I replaced the broken switch with an illuminated rocker, rated at 20 amps at 120 volts. Because the replacement switch was a different size, I built a new face plate from plastic I cut from an electrical box.

Other manufacturers issue recalls for these types of problems. I wonder why Harbor Freight seems to be immune? A quick search and I found their recall list, only 2 items…

Harbor Freight Recall Information

4 Responses to “Harbor Freight Drill Press Switch”



  1. Mike S Says:

    Because nobody expects Harbor Freight products to last. They’re so cheap, most people figure that if it lasts for a couple of jobs, they got their money’s worth.

    I bought an oscillating tool from them recently for $40. It’s worked great for a couple of jobs. If it breaks, I won’t be calling anybody to complain. Only if it had a hazardous flaw would I even bother to report it to the company.

    If I were a pro that used one regularly, I’d get a better quality Bosch, Fein, or Porter Cable tool. But for odd jobs, the $40 HF is the better choice.

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  2. Ray Says:

    Inductive motor switches are vulnerable in any case. In my experience, the switches on less expensive Chinese power tools usually last the life of the tool … usually. They could put a fancy switch on it, but then the cheap-affordable tool would become a cheap-not-so-affordable tool. It’s a tradeoff.

    What kills power switches in these applications are mainly two things — First, electric motors have a very large starting surge current, several times more than the current draw when they are running.

    Second, when the contacts are opened to shut off the power, the motor (having large coils) provides a huge inductive kickback voltage across the switch contacts, causing them to arc. In other words, the motor coils act like an ignition coil in a car engine, and switch contacts act like the spark plug.

    Over time, that will erode the switch contacts and/or sometimes arc weld them together. There are special arc supression motor control contactors available, or electronic circuits to soft-start motors and limit arcing. The catch is they’re not free.

    While your replacement switch may eventually get cabbaged, given the cost of the average home-use drill press, it’s probably the best solution. If you do eventually have replace the switch again, now you’ve made an easy way to get at it, and it’s a standard size/shape, so you just have to pop a new one in.

    Conclusion: Nice repair!

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  3. kurt Says:

    Here is a electrocution hazard alert!
    older version of half inch power snake, model 46769. Unit is orange and black what is open face cable coil.
    Danger is in footswitch which is open electric circuit. Although original switch was encased in rubber , coating wears off after several uses. According to company representative, The foot switch “is not intended for use in wet locations…” . Cannot remember ever sneaking a drain with out standing in water!!

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    Steve Reply:

    Always use a GFCI when using electrical tools in a wet location.

    http://shopngarage.com/2011/07/portable-gfci/

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