This is how I built a fuel tank skid plate for my Suzuki Samurai…
I wanted a little space between the skid plate and the bottom of the tank. I taped nuts to the bottom to use as temporary spacers while I developed a pattern.
I cut cardboard pieces and taped them together until I had a design I liked.
I traced the cardboard patterns on 3/16″ steel plate and cut the parts out with a plasma cutter. After spot welding the parts together, I tested the fit on the tank.
WARNING: Never cut or weld near open fuel lines or gasoline fumes. An explosion could occur.
I finish welded the skid plate and removed the mill scale in my abrasive blast cabinet.
It is finished with epoxy primer and flat black enamel.
I’ve been looking for a quality set of brad point drill bits. Most of the brands are now made in China and have so much runout, they are unusable in a drill press. I just discovered Montana brand drill bits. I purchased a set on Amazon for the very affordable price of $19.99…
I hated the sheath that came with my Leatherman Wave. It was basically a strip of leather that wrapped from the front, around the back, over the top, and snapped in front. The open sides had strips of elastic to hold the tool.
I checked several of my local outdoor stores for a better sheath, and ended up settling for a nylon sheath from REI. This is the second sheath I have worn out.
I turned to the internet to find a better sheath. I purchased the original brown sheath directly from Leatherman for $6. The product description says that this sheath only fits the original Leatherman Wave. I don’t know how to tell if I have the original Wave, but mine fits nicely inside.
A front snap closes this well made leather sheath.
I have removed the stock bumper. I will cut the bumper mounting tube flush with the body mounts on either side of the frame rails. The ends of the tube are not needed for the new bumper.
I have spot welded the pieces together and am doing a test fit.
After spot welding, I removed the bumper and finished the welds on the floor. I sprayed it with Krylon primer from a rattle can.
I finished the project with three coats of Krylon satin black. This is much tougher than the tin foil bumper that came from the factory.
This is a Krikit V-belt tension gauge from Gates. Proper v-belt tension is important for belt and bearing life. This gauge can measure 30 to 150 lbs of tension on belts up to 7/8″ wide. Tests have shown that estimating is very inaccurate when adjusting belt tension.
Although newer vehicles usually have automatic belt tensioners, there are plenty of other things around the shop with v-belts. Compressors, blower drives, and shop machinery use v-belts. Use the manufacturer’s specifications for belt tension if available. I downloaded an iPhone app from Gates that can calculate belt tension.
